There are six main ways to have your saw chain sharpened. For best results, remove the chain from the saw. Clamping the drive links in a vice will help steady the chain cutters.
How to choose the best option for you?
Open Hand Sharpening Technique – File and Handle
By using a specific sized round file with a file handle. This method is only for the true professional or regular user. The chance of getting all the angles wrong is very high, so this method is really only good for “touching up” the chain tooth to maintain the edge.
File and Guide Tool – with file mounted into steel guide
By the use of this simple tool, and a bit of careful use, you can end up with a reasonably professional sharpen. Special care is needed to keep everything in line. The guide will stop you from filing too much off. A separate depth gauge file guide sometimes comes with the kit. This sharpening file and guide system is highly recommended, as the tool is inexpensive and is the most common DIY way to sharpen your saw chain. Again, using a file and guide is still only good for “touch ups.” Really blunt chains will need to be sharpened using a grinder.
Guide Bar Locating Sharpening Kit – File ‘n Joint Kit
This tool is a bit tricky to initially set up, but once set up it is very accurate and simple to use. It clamps directly onto the chainsaw ‘Bar’. The tool can have both the round sharpening file for the teeth and a square file to lower the depth gauges. A little more expensive and is ideal for those less accurate with the eye while still desiring the professional finish.
DREMMEL or GRANBERG Style Grinders with Grind Stones
Fit your appropriate sized grind stone into your grinder unit (Oregon, STIHL, Granberg) or a Dremmel grinder, or even a high speed cordless drill to sharpen the chainsaw teeth – this is quicker than filing but needs a good eye – remember to lubricate the grind stone frequently to prevent overheating the tooth and loss of tempering.
Bench Mounted Chainsaw Grinders – Oregon or STIHL
Using a bench mounted grinder you achieve greater accuracy and efficiency. These can be set up to exact angles and precise rake angle for ripping or cross-cut chains. Other than taking them to the professional, these are the closest sharpening method to the original factory grind you will get. The removed saw chain is set up in the chain guide and holder located on the electric bench grinder. The protractor table can be set to the exact angle required, for both left-hand and right-hand cutters. The grinding depth can be set likewise. The stone angle is normally pre-set by the manufacturer. Although these machines can be quite expensive, the quality will have a direct relationship to the accuracy of your sharpen. If you have a reasonably large number of chains to keep sharp and have the time to dedicate to this type of work, the bench grinder is your ultimate DIY chain sharpener.
Bring your Chainsaw, or Chain only, into Wright's for a Professional Sharpen
– We use factory supplied professional STIHL USG GRINDERS with genuine STIHL grind stones.
– Our Service Engineers are factory trained.
– We WET sharpen your saw chain using the very best soluble cooling oils, pressure pumped directly onto the chain cutter whilst being precision ground, thus keeping it cool. WET sharpening keeps the grinding wheel and cutter cool preserving the heat-treated temper of the tooth. This stops wheel glaze, blueing of the tooth and excessive burring. Therefore keeping your saw chain sharper, longer.
– Tungsten chains require a different type of sharpening stone – STIHL DURO chains should only be sharpened by STIHL specialist workshops.
– DRY sharpening ruins the saw tooth. The heat-treated tempering has gone, and the now soft-cutting tooth will not hold its edge.
– Always demand a WET sharpen for your next saw chain sharpen – a Wright’s specialty Contact Us