Chainsaws – Petrol Powered
Whether you are cutting firewood, maintaining your property, or you are a commercial and professional user, there are a huge range of quality specialist Chainsaws available. It is recommended to only stick to reputable brands with proven backup and safety records.
DOMESTIC SAWS Petrol Chainsaws come in all shapes and sizes, but don't always match the engine and bar size needed to complete your job. Don't be fooled by over-barred saws with small motors. Quality is paramount and needs serious consideration.
COMMERCIAL SAWS Specialist Chainsaws for the professional forestry worker, tree felling company, arborists and municipalities are available, including specific saws for tree surgery.
- How to avoid Chainsaw kickback
- Petrol guidelines for powered equipment
- Servicing small 2-stroke engines
- How to sharpen a Chainsaw
- How to choose Chainsaw safety CHAPS
- How to use a Chainsaw safely
- How to start a Chainsaw
- How to choose the correct hearing protection
How do I sharpen a Chainsaw?
There are a multitude of different ways to sharpen a Chainsaw, from a touch-up with a file or a file and guide, through to precision-ground workshop sharpeners. It is all dependant on your level of expertise and a certain degree of accuracy is required. Click here How To Sharpen a Chainsaw.
What is the correct 2-stroke oil and fuel mix to use in my Chainsaw?
We always recommend sticking with the original manufacturer's specified warranty approved 2-stroke oil mixture, such as STIHL, Echo, and others. If in doubt you should be able to use standard 2-stroke oil at a 25:1 ratio (40ml per litre). Warning: please do not use outboard oil.
Can I use any oil type for my Chainsaw bar lube?
No, this is not recommended. The brand of bar lube is not so important, so long as it is genuine chainsaw bar lubricating oil you will be fine. Using waste oil ruins oilers, chains, bars and sprockets. Using an oil that is not bar lube is wasteful as bar lube has the sticky additive that makes it adhere to the chain, rather than being "spun off". Bar lube also has an anti-gumming agent to help reduce glazing, gum or sap build up.
Will all workshop sharpened chains be done the same?
No, you would like to think so, but there are few workshops who will wet sharpen a chain to prevent loss of the chain tooth tempering. This won't affect the accuracy of the cutting tooth, but will soften the tooth so it will be less durable. Insist on a wet sharpened chain.
How many sharpens can I get out of my chain?
The million dollar question – it all depends on three main factors. The quality of the chain is key, plus if you touch-up your chain more frequently using the "little and often" principle then the chain seems to last longer, rather than letting it get badly blunt, in which case a more aggressive sharpen is needed. How the chain is treated – cutting good, clean wood as opposed to sand, grit, stones, dirt, and nails will affect the life of the chain.
What about Duro Tungsten tipped chainsaw chains?
There are currently a number of different sized chain types available in the STIHL Duro style chainsaw chains. There will be more introduced progressively as time passes to cover most chain types. A Duro chain has a hardened Tungsten tooth, which is more resistant to wear and holds it's sharpen for at least four times as long. These do require special grind stones to be sharpened.
What safety gear do I need?
Absolute essentials are the following when using a chainsaw: approved chainsaw safety chaps, ear muffs, safety specs, (or a visor assembly with ear muffs fitted). We also recommend gloves, a suitable helmet and a clear head.
What is chainsaw KICKBACK?
Kickback can occur during most work procedures if the saw is not handled carefully. This is why it is essential for you to learn and use correct saw operating technique. Always use a chainsaw with a working chain brake. Read more in the chain brake and inertia function section. Thumbs and fingers must be completely wrapped around the handles. Always keep your left thumb under the front handle when you use the saw to catch and control the saw in case of kickback.
Beware of the kickback zone!
The kickback zone is the upper part of the nose of the guide bar. Applying the guide bar to a cutting situation in this area has a kickback risk. Never saw using the part of the guide bar that poses a significant risk for kickback! In the event of kickback, the chain will grip the timber with the kickback zone first. The saw and blade are thrown backwards and upwards by the force of the rotating chain. Placing the saw at high speed with a moving chain in line with your face !!